Rick the plumber : If you have a 3 valve bypass then you would shut the 2 valves on the branches of the main TEEs and open the valve that is on the straight through run. Once the motor advances to the fill portion of the cycle the presser will bleed off. close bypass valves > start regen (backwash) > unplug power so valve remains in backwash > remove softener from bypass manifold> remove valve from mineral tank> pull distributor tube out> dump old resin/gravel> inspect distributor for cracks or weak plastic (good idea to just replace it as prevention) > place distributor in mineral tank, be sure it is seated fully, … Just use a small flat bladed screw driver to remove the black clips and then pull the softener away and replace the o-rings. It is where the copper pipe meets the water softener pipe. Bypass Directions. This valve allows the water to “bypass” the softener should you have a problem. Set the bypass valve. Since they are on the connections as well as on the valves I would suspect that they are holding the parts of the valves in place against water pressure. I will be happy to assist you. After the pressure is released, push the bypass assembly towards the softener. You are talking maybe 5 min's tops to remove the Water Softener out of the Potable water system. On the average well water system, the resins will last 30 - 40 years. I would advise you to not try to remove the orange clips. The reason the clips are hard to remove is because the system this has pressure on it. If the bypass valve includes inlet and outlet valves, close the inlet and outlet valves and open the bypass valve. You could just use two Shark bites and a piece of PEX or Copper tubing. The bypass valve is at the back of the water softener. My original thought was to buy a copper male adaptor and sweat that to the bypass valve so I could just screw on the water softener connections. How to Use & Set the Water Softener Bypass Valve. To bleed off the pressure press and hold the regenerate now button. That way I dont have to tie the main back together and the new owners can put in their softener easier? Then when you are ready to put back in another Water Softner, you just remove the Shark Bites and piece of copper and put back in the new one and new bypass. If the bypass valve has one stem, close the plunger into the stem. I have removed the existing water softener once before to make sure that an obstruction in the bypass valve wasn't causing my reduced flow. Every Culligan water softener that we install has a bypass valve. If you push the by-pass valve to the service position you can remove the black clips and move the softener out for servicing the o-rings. [Click to enlarge any image] Call the water softener service. The valve in the link is not the exact one that is in my house (same set up, different material). also there are 3 valves how do I turn it to bypass the softener? Replacing your old control valve head can add another 10 or 20 years to your current water softener. The black connectors are there to hold the softener to the by pass valve. Since the water softener is getting pretty old, I thought it would be best to replace it. Examples of issues are: Low water pressure; Leaking softener The resin tank will last 100 years. The water softener bypass valve is normally included as part of the control valve assembly on top of the water softener media tank (the smaller tank that handles the actual ion exchange that is the real work of a water softener). On chlorinated "city" water resin replacement is recommended about every 10 … I was hoping to just pull the old one out and put the new one in. 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